A Bucket List Swim in Crater Lake
Kim had been a little obsessed with Crater Lake for a few years. Every photo she saw made her want to jump in the car and drive there, even though it was nearly twenty hours away. We had tried several times to plan a trip after moving to California, but something always got in the way. When we finally made it happen for our wedding anniversary, hiking down to the lake and jumping into that impossibly blue water was at the top of her list.
Cleetwood Cove is the only place in the park where visitors can legally reach the shore of Crater Lake. It is also where the boats leave for tours of the lake and Wizard Island. We did not have time for a boat trip on this visit, but we were determined to make the hike down to the cove for a swim.
The trailhead has a large parking lot, but it fills early and stays busy throughout the day. We arrived in the middle of the afternoon and lucked into a spot near the back. Kim changed into her swimsuit in our rental minivan, whom we had named Martha, and then we headed down the trail.
Cleetwood Cove had a completely different feeling from Garfield Peak. We had started that hike around sunrise and enjoyed an almost empty trail. Cleetwood Cove was crowded with families, groups of friends, swimmers, and people heading out on boat tours.
This hike also begins with the easy part. A series of long switchbacks descends 700 feet in just over a mile, carrying you from the rim to the shore. The trail was well maintained, with benches and places to rest along the way, but we knew every downhill step would have to be climbed again later.
Once we reached the bottom, the lake looked even bluer than it had from the rim. The water was so clear that we could see straight through it to the rocks below, although that clarity made judging their depth surprisingly difficult.
The boat dock and a small concession stand were near the end of the trail, along with restrooms. Water, soda, and snacks were expensive, but someone had to carry all of those supplies down the same trail we had just descended.
There is no soft beach at Cleetwood Cove. The shoreline is covered in boulders, and people carefully climbed across them to find places where they could sit near the water. Some dangled their feet over the edge, while others jumped from the taller rocks into the lake. We watched a few people take the plunge before finding a lower spot where we could sit, soak, and swim.
The water was incredibly cold. Summer surface temperatures stay in the 50s, and it felt every bit as chilly as expected. Even walking into it required some care. The submerged rocks appeared much closer than they really were, and every step reached a little farther down than I anticipated.
Kim stood in the water for about twenty minutes before deciding she needed to stop thinking about the cold and jump in. She climbed onto a rock and launched herself into Crater Lake. The shock on her face when she came back up said everything.
I was happy soaking my legs and letting the cold water work like an ice pack on my sore muscles. After the other hikes we had already completed that day, it felt wonderful. Kim swam and floated nearby while I sat among the rocks with the clear water around my legs.
Eventually, we dried off and started back up the trail. The climb was a leg burner, especially after two other hikes that day, so we took our time. Smoke from the Spruce Lake Fire began rolling across the landscape as we climbed, slowly softening and then obscuring the view of the lake.
By the time we reached the top, Crater Lake had disappeared behind the smoke. We were grateful for the clear hours we had enjoyed earlier, especially those quiet moments at the shoreline when Kim finally completed her bucket-list swim.
Planning a visit?
Cleetwood Cove Trail is closed for a major rehabilitation project during the 2026, 2027, and 2028 seasons. Check the National Park Service website for current conditions and reopening updates.
